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August 7, 1834

August 7, 1834

Brisk, favorable wind; foggy horizon, overcast, and a little rain. We were in the middle of the Channel approximately 38 miles from the English coast and sailed by Cape Lizard during the night. About noon we were approximately below Cape Start Point. Six ships were visible in the distance. About noon our latitude was [——], our longitude [——]. The wind, which blew very briskly all morning, became halfway contrary about noon. The sky was slightly cloudy, the weather warm and pleasant. Several ships [were seen] in different directions. The tips for the stewards were collected; each passenger contributed 20 francs.

At three o’clock someone saw land from the mainmast. This was the island [of] Guernsey, and in an hour to the right ahead of us, [——] Island, very indistinct because the horizon was foggy. After this island, the island [of] Alderney appeared, very distant. The wind became very strong now, and intermittent rain squalls moved in. After lunch we were at about five o’clock opposite [——] Is- land, where we could clearly make out three lighthouses and the strangely shaped rocks. Then we sailed in front of Guernsey Alderney, where we could see a village with some white houses and a few windmills on an elevated plain. The island has a barren look.

After this, the French coast was clearly visible with Cape La Hague. Much Fucus was [in the water,] as well as a diving razorbill. Toward England we did not see any ships at all; however, [we saw] several along the French coast—among them chasse-marées—-small vessels that run the coastal trade. The wind blew very briskly; the seas were choppy. At four o’clock we made nine knots, always [running] fast. After lunch the wind was very strong, the sky dark, and everything led us to expect a bad night, particularly because [it appeared that] we could not take the pilot aboard this evening, [and] the Channel is dangerous when shipping during a storm.

Everyone, especially the Captain, impatiently looked for a pilot boat. We saw a few small sails in the distance and [studied] them through the telescope for a long time. Finally the Captain shouted that he saw the pilot boat, and very soon we saw the small red, white, and blue flag fly on the top of his foremast. His boat dived and danced violently. We hoisted the flag at [our] foremast right away, which is the signal for the pilot, [then] took several sails down and hoisted the mainsail to avoid sailing too fast. The pilot boat fought fiercely against the waves; there were only three men on it. Finally it was beside us. We hung thick [padded?] balls overboard to buffer the impact of the [vessels].Figure 28.4. Buffer ball. The boat stayed behind until we could throw ropes to it. More and more sails were shortened, and we succeeded in throwing about four ropes across, which the pilots tied down and pulled themselves in with.

One of [the pilots] threw a bundle across and jumped on board. They immediately released the ropes, and the ships distanced themselves from one another. We raised the sails and sped away. The wind, however, soon turned contrary and was still very strong.

The pilot gave me various information. There were 41 pilots at [Le] Havre. As a symbol, they wear a silver anchor with a chain in a buttonhole. They call two-masted boats like theirs flambard. Yesterday these people celebrated Jour du Saint Sauveur, the only holiday for pilots. He said that is the reason one saw so few pilots on the seas today. This morning at four o’clock, he had seen a large American ship in the Channel and suspected [that] it was an American packet. It must be in [Le] Havre by now. This, we suspected, must [have been] the Albany, which sailed on 8 [July] from New York. Tomorrow the Silvie de Grasse is sailing from (Le) Havre to New York.

At dusk we saw the light beacon (phare) of Cherbourg and sailed by at eight o’clock. Soon the light of Barfleur was visible ahead, a little to our right. The wind was very strong, but the night was beautiful, neither dark nor cold. We were sailing [at] seven to eight knots, even though the wind was against us a little. Soon we saw a third light. The night was stormy, and the ship surged.

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Journal Location: English Channel