Four-and-a-Half Months’ Stay in New Harmony
Description of the region – Natural history – Messrs. Say, Lesueur, and Owen – Hunting excursions in Indiana and Illinois – Wabash, Fox River – Illinois prairies – Albion – Black River – Mr. Bodmer’s trip to New Orleans
December 1, 1832
Early in the morning, very gloomy, overcast, rainy sky. It had rained heavily all night but ceased at daybreak. At seven thirty, temperature of 4°R [41°F, 5°C]. This morning we moved into the New Harmony Hotel (Mr. Arthur), located diagonally opposite Mr. Say’s house. Here we live with friendly, pleasant people. The landlord is an Englishman.
At noon, temperature of 6 1/2°R [46.6°F, 8.1°C]. Humid, murky weather. Since they are unpaved, the streets of New Harmony are dissolved in mire. Mr. Lesueur sent me several interesting snakes.
Afternoon visit at the homes of Messrs. Say and Lesueur. The latter gave me a big Scincus erythrocephalus, which is plentiful all along the Mississippi but not plentiful here along the Wabash. He found it on a tree in the forest, and his dog barked at it as though it were a squirrel. The weather remained humid, rainy, and unpleasant all day. Night came very early. So far we do not regret changing inns, because our dwelling is far more pleasant and until now the food better. The landlord and landlady [are] very friendly, agreeable people. In all these country inns, table company is unpleasant, for if one does not want to dine in his room—something that is not looked upon favorably here—one has to eat with all the crude, often shabby and dirty farmers from the country who happen to come in. One can usually isolate oneself somewhat, though not completely. People usually do not say a word at such a table, quickly wolf down their food, and immediately put their hats on their heads and leave as quickly as they came.