May 16, 1834

Dense fog in the morning, [and we] therefore departed late. Much wind rose on the river soon afterward. At seven thirty the mouth of the Wolf River [was] on the right. Before we reached it, we saw six or seven game animals to the right on the shore before the forest. At seven thirty, 63°F [17.2°C]. At nine o’clock, [we] landed on the right bank. The tall forest had a dense underbrush of box elder (Acer negundo) and Cornus. [The underbrush] was full of caterpillars and their webs; every piece of clothing was quickly covered with them.

Mr. Bodmer shot a beautiful Sylvia [——]. At twelve o’clock, 72°F [22.2°C]. We hunted a wild turkey in vain. Between twelve o’clock and one o’clock [we passed] the mouth of the Nodaway River on the left bank. Magnificent forest, a glorious island with high trees. Lush, primeval forest scenery—high forest trunks completely entwined with young green [vines?] up to the tops of the highest branches. [The trees] stand there in numbers like the most beautiful light green columns, their leaves shiny, full of sap, [and] light green like all the magnificent surrounding forest vegetation. In this rich, bright foliage, we could recognize (even from the boat) the vermilion-red tanager (Tanagra rubra) and the beet-red cardinal (Fringilla cardinalis), which glowed like flames [in the] bushes. The French in the area of St. Louis and on the Missouri know the former bird by the name of pape, [a name] that is bestowed upon Fringilla ciris in New Orleans. The shining sun magnificently lit the aforementioned, awe-inspiring forest scenery, where the redbud and other early blooming trees had already lost their splendor. Most broad-leafed trees of these forests do not have beautiful, brilliant blossoms as in South America, but [instead] mostly catkins (amenta) and plain blossoms.

For the first time in a long time we noticed the kingfisher (Alcedo alcyon). About four o’clock we reached the beautiful hill chain [called in Iowa/Otoe] Wåkán-Se-Uä (‘an’ as in French, ‘e’ and ‘U’ separate), or the Blacksnake Hills, and nearby, the Robidoux trading house in the vicinity of the Iowa and Sauk Indians. The beautiful elevations and the prairie extending before them were resplendently green. The hills to the left of the river had strange forms and a beautiful forest. The two houses located here were painted white, giving them a picturesque appearance when viewed from the river, surrounded [as they were] by lively, new green. Fine cattle were grazing on the plain, and behind the dwellings [there] were large, fencedin cornfields, near to and between the hills. Mr. Robidoux and his son were away. Unfortunately, some coarse engagés who were there would not grant our wish to visit the neighboring Indians. Nor could we get any provisions from them. However, they did give us some fresh milk [for] free. About 30 Otoe and Missouria Indians had arrived here a few days ago and had gone to the nearby Indian villages to get spirits [liquor]. An Iowa village is located about 6 miles from here, and a Sauk village [is] less nearly the same distance downriver, not far from the Missouri.

These Indians receive as much spirits as they want from the outermost American settlements, 15 miles distant; [those Americans] cross the dividing line, or border, set by the American government and limiting the Indian country in the latitude of Cantonment Leavenworth. This easy [access] to cheap [liquor] is highly pernicious to the Indians and [is] more and more the ruination of these people. We were told that it would not be advisable to visit the villages at this time, because Indians [there] had done nothing for several days but drink [liquor] and [thus] were in a dangerous condition. Several Indians were with us, [and] at every moment, still more came, most of them on horseback and some with four to five casks of their favorite drink hanging on their horses. The drunken condition of the Indians kept us from going [to the villages]; moreover, [the engagés] would not lend us horses for that purpose.

The Otoe, Missouria, and Iowa (the British write Ioway) Indians, at least the young people, had shorn off their hair in the fashion of the Sauk and Meskwaki [Indians]. But many, especially the older ones, could be seen with their hair cut off square at the neck. One Missouria wore it long, hanging halfway down his back. Their traditional costumes and customs were said to be the same as those of the Sauks. They wore thick bundles of wampum strings [through] holes [pierced] in their ear rims. Some young people had red cloth wrapped around their shorn heads. The Otoes and Missourias wanted to return today to their villages upstream on the other side of the Missouri, [taking with them] their sweet load of nectar. They wished us to ferry them across, which [we did not do]. One of the Otoes wore a cap on his head made from the head-skin (including the ears) of a reddish brown bear. All these Indians are smaller and more slight than the upper Missouri [peoples], especially the Hidatsas and Mandans. On our boat Mr. Bodmer drew a young Missouria from this formerly powerful nation, which lost its independence through defeat by the Sauks, Meskwakis, and Osages. Since that time, they have lived intermingled with the Otoes. The work of drawing attracted a whole group of these people onto the boat, which was very irksome in the heat. [The Indians] were, however, very trusting and friendly and left us only at night. Even though the day was hot and the evening glorious, the engagés still lit a fire in the fireplace of the house.

Beautiful birds were visible on the prairies and [in] neighboring trees. Partridges flew up in pairs ahead of us. Dreidoppel shot the harrier with the white lower back (Falco [——]). Blackbirds were numerous, as [were] several interesting birds that we could not get to. In the house they kept a young black bear. We saw the indigo-blue finch (Fringilla cyanea) [and] the yellow-headed and other troupials that cause much damage to the corn. On the prairie we heard the call of the partridge (P. virginiana).

Nice plants bloomed on the plain, among them a dark-blue Delphinium, a fleshcolored Geranium, and other species. The plant growth was lush. A small, deeply cut creek rushed quickly by the dwellings toward the Missouri. We remained lying [tied up to] the bank overnight.

Current Location

Journal Location: Missouri River