Havre-de-Grâce [Le Havre] is a lively commercial city of 35,000 inhabitants built in the old style. [The city] continues [to grow] inland, in some ways nicely and elegantly. The harbor and the docks are very extensive and full of ships from all nations. The traffic with America is especially strong. Some parts of the city are interesting, particularly the square at the harbor and several very busy main streets, where beautiful, rich stores may be found. The harbor silts up quite often, and it frequently becomes necessary to dredge it; special ships are busy [with this task]. Many English people are settled here; therefore, there are several very English inns as well as English steamboats sailing regularly. French [steamboats] maintain the traffic on the Seine with Rouen, to which they depart several times a week. There are many inns, and we visited several without being able to find accommodations. Finally we did [find a room] in the London Hotel; it was not particularly good.

The douane [customs office] and the bureau des passeports [passport bureau] are extremely strict and tiresome to foreigners. After noon, the luggage was driven to the douane. We went there and had to stand [for] several hours while the mass of luggage that had arrived was checked. Everything was thrown around and heaped up in a disorderly fashion. Later the passports were received. Again we had to stand around for a long time. Mr. Meinel, the Bavarian consul, to whom we had been recommended from New York, was very helpful.

Soon I visited Mr. Eyriès, the brother of the well-known translator in Paris [and] who lives very comfortably near the suburbs of [Le] Havre. There we saw a nice, wooded hill [and] on it, very beautiful country homes and gardens. Mr. Eyriès lives in one of [these homes], where he invited me for breakfast on 9 August. I gave him news and regards from his friend [Mr.] Lesueur in [New] Harmony, which made him very happy. He himself is an expert and enthusiast in botany and cultivates many beautiful plants. His terraced garden is located on the wooded hill. The residence is at the middle of the rise. In front of [the house] is a very dark, shaded spot with trees; on the other side [is] a more open terrace with very tall, old, beautiful cedars from Lebanon that are very large; on the walls [were] fine grapes. The upper part of the hill consists of a wild forest with paths; several kinds of conifers grow in it, among them the stone pine and several American [conifers]; farther above is a place with young American oaks that are growing nicely. The whole area is fenced in.

The lower part of the garden is separated by a thick, high hedge of arborvitae and [is] completely protected from the wind. Here are many Cistus purpureus, Magnolia, and other plants, grown from seeds, that can survive outdoors. Many other delicate trees survived several years higher up, next to the house, [although] a few years ago, [some] froze in a particularly severe winter.

Mr. Eyriés’ greenhouse, although not large, is especially well arranged. In order to provide the plants with light, he has [many] square openings in the ceiling, and [the plants] virtually tower toward them. The garden inspector, Otto, who was here from Berlin, is said to have liked this arrangement very much.

Mr. Eyriés owns a nice cactus collection [and] likes to trade [specimens]. From the residence rather high up [on the hill], there is an indescribably beautiful view toward the extremely wide Seine. To the right is the Channel, where, in the distance, ships can be seen coming in[to the harbor]. Closer [to us is] the city of [Le] Havre, and even closer is the somewhat scattered suburb of Ingonville, which has 8,000 souls. The whole surrounding area [is] full of life, variety, beautiful bushes and forest [all] mixed with country homes [and] bordered by the hill chain. The view is particularly beautiful from his library. Mr. Eyriés owns an interesting collection of reproductions of lighthouses (phares) from [various] countries and parts of the world. Some [of these] are very good sketches and landscapes. Napoleon once employed him to inspect institutions like these on the French coast.

On the way back, we had a close look at a natural history collection that was for sale for 20,000 francs. It included many interesting pieces, particularly beautiful birds, various kinds of conchylia, and other items. Large mammals were missing entirely. [Le] Havre has still more private collections and several dealers in natural history objects. One of the most outstanding is Lennier, who owns a large [number] of interesting pieces. For a nice lion with a jet-black mane, he asked 500 francs; a nice vulture, 80 francs; as a skin without arrangement, 60 francs; a large calao (not set up), 100 francs; the blue Indian crowned pigeon, 50 francs; the condor (very beautiful), 300 francs; it was available, however, for 200 francs. We found [in this place] a great many beautiful birds, also many live [birds]. [Le] Havre could be called the city of parrots, because of the immense number of these birds. Other live birds, particularly small ones, are seen in large numbers. Five of my American birds flew away here, [so] I bought myself an Arara.

The Bavarian consul, Mr. Meinel, invited us for a trip to Harfleur, where there is an interesting old church in Gothic style that serves mariners as a chapel of invocation. The journey there leads along the Seine upward [from] the foot of the hill chain and is highly pleasant. From Harfleur we continued on foot for half an hour to the park of Msr. de [——]. I have forgotten the name. It is located on a somewhat elevated plateau above the Seine, from whence there is an excellent view. The park itself is a very wild forest with trails cut through [it], without any additional grounds. About evening we returned and dined with some gentlemen in the city.

[Le] Havre has several curiosities; these can be found in books. I did not have the time to look all of them up. During my rounds at the booksellers, I found little of interest. Our American travel companions-—Captain Stoddard, Messrs. Barnard, Lane, and Nicoll—-had departed for Paris.5 Before [they left], we ate lunch with all of them and took our leave. We stayed two days in [Le] Havre.

Dreidoppel had put my bears aboard the boat La jeune Sophie, with Capitaine Gautier bound for Dunkerque, and left with them in the night of 9 August; I paid 65 francs for the passage.