July 2, 1834

In the morning, fog, cool. Very early [we reached] Rochester, an imposing city where we stopped at a quite well-stocked bookstore. Here we went aboard a new boat and continued on after half an hour. The Genesee River flows here and has caused on the lower part much water [sic]. There is a large—804-foot-long—aqueduct located above it. Many alternating meadows, marshes, and fields [line] the canal. The Genesee is famous for its waterfalls, [——] miles from the city. Many tourists stop to look at them, but since our time [was] short, and we [had seen] the Niagara [Falls], we continued our journey. [We observed] nice, varying forest areas [with] many beech trees. We saw two water snakes. Typha was growing every where on the banks. About nine o’clock we reached the town of Pittsford, which has a few good brick houses and a church with a steeple. We changed horses there. In this area we saw beautiful small forests, almost purely oak. Soon [we reached] a lock; from its elevation there was a nice view of a large forested valley. [There] were pure oak forests here. It seems [that] the red and black oaks grow on the canal. We saw many turtles and blooming roses.

Figure 26.1. Flatboat.Large, flat boats with covered cabins at the back picked up soil and rock and brought them to places on the canal where work was then being done.

Irondequoit River opens to the right with a wooded bank, then Perinton follows, a village. The canal flows over the creek, whose water is dark brown. A mill on the creek carries the sign Irondequoit Mill. [Perinton] has pretty wooden houses painted white, and nice forested elevations [lie] beyond the village. The canal is sometimes constructed on rather high [elevations] through the valley; water spreads out at its sides like ponds; forest and nice clumps of bushes [are] on its banks. Cercis [is seen], Sambucus blooms everywhere, [and there are] beech trees, tulip trees, various kinds of oak, maple (particularly the tall, proud sugar tree), hornbeam, Celtis, and others. We came across several canal boats that were loaded with emigrants from Europe, especially Germans.

Our horses trotted constantly; a packet boat such as ours can cover 100 to 104 miles in 24 hours. Over 1,200 boats navigate this canal.

Fringilla tristis, the cute yellow goldfinch, is seen frequently in [this] vicinity. The wheat in this area was still ripe [sic].

About ten o’clock we reached the village of Fairport, where people were working on the completion of a new church. The broad-leafed Asclepias bloomed everywhere, [with] floribus axillaribus. Outside the larger towns, all dwellings were constructed of wood and covered with wooden shingles; even [in the larger towns], for the most part, [this was the case].

Soon after Fairport [there] was a mill near a bridge and a few houses; we changed horses there. The last [team of horses] had pulled for 10 miles. Potatoes were not blooming yet. To the left on the valley floor, everything was covered with cut-off tree stumps; the land is crisscrossed with fences in all directions.

In front of us was a nice forest heavily mixed with firs. [Some of the trees had] died, probably because of the wetness caused by the canal. The Thuja grew here in numbers, very tall and strong, 30 to 40 feet high; also [here were] the Ohio larch (Larix), aspen trees, Platanus, Cercis, several kinds of walnut, oak, elm, [and] maple, all entwined with wild grapevines, willows, and Rhus. The wind carried the original scent of the Thuja [trees] very strongly to our boat. This forest is magnificent and wild; withered conifers lay wildly about, frequently broken [up]. Cattle grazed between them, their bells [ringing] harmoniously like in our Thüringian or Harz forest [in Germany] or in Switzerland, and lumberjacks were busily sawing the conifer trunks. At the canal, the bushes were spotted white with masses of Sambucus flowers. We frequently noticed dead fish in the canal today, undoubtedly killed by the locks. Dark beech forests reminded me of scenery in the fatherland. The area is quite wooded.

We [soon] reached a pure larch forest (Pinus larix rubra?), where the marsh larch of the Ohio Canal also grew. It perhaps could be identical to the former? But it does not seem to me to be so. [Next] we had a long, straight view on the canal, which flows straight as an arrow through the forest. We saw many boats arrive and depart. The magnificent dark of the forest and its excellent scent were enjoyable and refreshing. On the left bank, this forest was so dense and solid, at the same time so tall, that the eye could not penetrate [it]. In other places, the thick trunks were so entwined with Hedera quinquefolia that they formed entirely greencovered columns. The cowbells enhanced this beautiful wilderness immensely. Clearings and extensive fields followed on the gentle elevations to the left.

I would have looked at this interesting area longer with pleasure if it were not for some heavy rain that drove us from the deck into the cabin of the boat. Our journey went through forest alternating with meadows and fields. Whole strips of forest [had been] cleared recently here and [were] still covered with tall stumps. Discounting the fences and the somewhat different look of the bushes, the area shows similarity to Germany. After twelve o’clock we reached Palmyra (town) in Wayne County, a small place with considerable trade. Mud Creek [Ganargua Creek] flows nearby, north of the place. The canal lies between it and the town. Several mills and factories are located on this creek. The trumpet was blown to summon passengers, and fresh horses were hitched.

About one thirty we were at Port Gibson; soon after, Newark; and half an hour later, Lockville. In the afternoon we had constant rain. Some of the grain fields were naturally bordered with spots of blooming Sambucus shrubs. This area is intensely cultivated. The canal now followed Mud Creek [Ganargua Creek] and flowed parallel to it. The valley is wide and flat here; tall forests cover its sides and heights.

At a mill on Mud Creek [Ganargua Creek] there were colossal old elms, their outer branches hanging down like those of the drooping birch. We passed the village of Lyons, and approximately an hour later, Clyde, an impressive town [that lies] on both sides of the Clyde River and the canal. Mud River [Ganargua Creek] had some time ago merged with the outlet of Canandaigua Lake. [There is] a lock in the town of Clyde, [and] a glass pane factory operates there.

About five thirty we reached the so-called Montezuma Marshes—extensive marshes three miles wide. They are formed by the outlet of Cayuga Lake and Seneca Lake, and their water is said to be mostly 4 to 8 feet deep. High grass grows here [and] conceals some of the water and the marsh. These marshy meadows alternate with forests and [can be] more or less covered with water. Individual farms are in suitable places.

At dusk we reached the place where the canal crosses the Clyde and Seneca rivers. After eight o’clock we were at the mouth of the latter river, where a long wooden bridge has been built above for pulling horses to walk on. The Seneca River empties into the Oswego River and helps to form it. The mouth of the Seneca is impressive.

Current Location

Journal Location: Rochester